Whelp.

"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword) 08/22/2016 at 16:02 • Filed to: None

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looks like the dream is dead.

Diagnosis: engine is kaput, needs a rebuild

So, I got the call. not enough room for a torch even after jacking the engine up. mechanic says the various leaks are worse than I initially thought they are. this isn’t some skullduggery, he knows full well I can’t afford a full engine rebuild. if anything, he offered to lend me his engine hoist at no cost. which means I now need to do a poor man’s rebuild (gaskets, timing chain, water pump,ect) because I definitely don’t have the money to put the speed parts that I want into it.

Can any of you recommend anything else I should do while I am in there? barring any machine work? it will get bore honed and magnafluxed someday (soon, hopefully) but not today.

cletus44 aka Clayton Seams > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 16:11

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Sounds like some major BS he is feeding you. Gaskets leaking? Only gaskets that will really leak oil are the valve covers (easy) and the oil pan. (also easy) By no means would that doom an engine. Doesn’t it run okay as is? Really confused why he would call this one dead. Like I said earlier and will say again, take it to another mechanic.

Bandit - destroyed his car > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 16:12

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Yo, it’s not that bad. Seriously. The hardest part about pulling an engine in one of these is getting the headers removed. Sure it’ll cost you. But a gasket set is pretty crazy cheap for pontiac blocks. A cam swap with new lifters and everything can be done for less than $150 and is totally worth doing. If you have questions about pulling an engine on one of these, just ask. Don’t be like me though, replace every gasket the first time. My rear main seal is leaking pretty badly and I refuse to pull the engine a second time.

Bandit - destroyed his car > cletus44 aka Clayton Seams 08/22/2016 at 16:16

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Maybe he means piston rings or valve seats? Idk.

My bird IS the word > cletus44 aka Clayton Seams 08/22/2016 at 16:16

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He didnt say it was dead, I am the one calling it. Said there was an oil leak, issues with the freeze plugs, and I cant get these goddamn manifolds off. + possible overheating issue (still think it was the rad cap, which I replaced) It does run ok, but given the age of it, and the fact that it has a bullshit nylon timing gear, it is just too sketchy for me to claim it is ok still.

My bird IS the word > Bandit - destroyed his car 08/22/2016 at 16:19

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I was going to buy a full set. did you pull the engine and tranny as one piece? luckily none of this looks too terribly expensive but the whole engine disassembly scares me. Should I replace bearings and shit now or wait for the real rebuild in 2-3 years?

cletus44 aka Clayton Seams > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 16:22

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Freeze plugs leak coolant. They’re hard to access but rather easy to install. Overheating issue is likely thermostat or waterpump. Both not bad fixes. Take it piece by piece. Don’t let this guy overwhelm you. Lots of mechanics hold old cars to new car standards and people freak out. It’s an old car. it’s going to leak. That’s alright.

My bird IS the word > cletus44 aka Clayton Seams 08/22/2016 at 16:35

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I’m more worried about internals, bearings, bolts, timing ect. I am going to replace anything that is affordable. the oldsmobile technically isn’t an interference engine, but they come close enough that damage can occur.

cletus44 aka Clayton Seams > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 16:42

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Bearings will let you know if they’re bad. Unless your oil pan has silver oil full of metal shavings, your bearings are happy. Timing is easy to change. This is a solid car, man! Where in the US are you located?

96Formula6spd > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 16:56

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Get the engine out and tear it down. I would inspect the bottom end such as the bearings in the mains and rods. Being a Firebird owner myself I have been there. Granted mine is a Lt-1 car. Anyways I will say this. Do it right the first time. Save up the $1200 and just rebuild it. Good news about the older stuff is it is CHEAP. If its not LS stuff pretty much nobody wants it anymore. I will say use oem parts where you can. Whatever you do, do not use any melling parts. But if you want help let me know. Not sure what part of the county you are in.

camaroboy68ss > Bandit - destroyed his car 08/22/2016 at 17:06

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Not sure on a second gen, but you can hook the hoist up and pull the motor just enough to get the pan out w/o pulling the motor usually. I could have done that with the 68 but I wanted to swap the cam and repaint the block and firewall so motor came out.

camaroboy68ss > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 17:10

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Pulling a motor apart is nothing scary just have to take your time when removing internals. If you are reusing the cam make sure the lifters go back in the same spot as they came out. Same goes with anything being reused. Just keep them in order of where they came off. An old manual with both torque specs and sequences are a must have for a beginner at rebuilding a motor.

My bird IS the word > cletus44 aka Clayton Seams 08/22/2016 at 17:11

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Pittsburgh. Picked the car up in ohio, drove it home. which is what pisses me off, figured this would at least last until I got some serious money. The motor runs strong, esp. once I rebuilt the carburetor

cletus44 aka Clayton Seams > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 17:16

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What does it need to be a running, driving car? Sounds not bad.

Bandit - destroyed his car > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 18:22

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Yep. It is super easy to pull it as one component. The only thing you should do is remove the front doghouse as a unit, don’t try to lift it out with the fenders and nose still in place. The engine is just too far back in the frame to get the hoist in safely without harming any paintwork. That’s how the factory installed everything so it’s super easy to pull the nose and fenders off as one giant piece (just go look through my old build blog http://oppositelock.kinja.com /tag/emma). Bearings are really cheap and must be done if you swap the cam. Engines are super simple to build and can be done fairly cheaply if you take your time and use the internet to help. They’re just big heavy lego sets. One last thing, you have to have your engine jacked up in order to remove headers.

Bandit - destroyed his car > camaroboy68ss 08/22/2016 at 18:24

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I’ve just decided to live with the leak and just top up the oil as necessary. The next time the 400 comes out, it won’t be going back in. I really want fuel injection and a manual.

My bird IS the word > cletus44 aka Clayton Seams 08/22/2016 at 19:49

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Tires, new electric choke, a new exhaust system (have all the parts) I did most of the work already I just put off the exhaust for obvious reasons.

My bird IS the word > camaroboy68ss 08/22/2016 at 19:52

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I got the phone book-sized 1978-79 Pontiac factory service manual, so I'm good on that front lol.

My bird IS the word > camaroboy68ss 08/22/2016 at 19:52

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Oh I'm pulling the whole thing. The question is with or without the transmission.

My bird IS the word > 96Formula6spd 08/22/2016 at 19:56

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I'm in Pittsburgh. The problem is I want to spend (and sort of need to) spend in excess of 2 grand that I cannot justify (graduate student). The 403 is a dog and needs new heads and a cam to make good power, which it can. That plus a new rear diff and I would have a rocket. Too much for now.

cletus44 aka Clayton Seams > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 20:35

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why not just take it to an exhaust shop?

My bird IS the word > cletus44 aka Clayton Seams 08/22/2016 at 20:40

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I need to replace the shitty manifolds with some hooker competition headers. the manifolds had a crossover pipe that bit the dust and all the bolt holes are all messed up. basically, I should have just bought downpipes to start with and now it is way too late to go back. the system itself is from pypes and should bolt right up once I can get the headers on.

camaroboy68ss > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 21:09

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if your not pulling the entire front clip off the car, drop the tranny first, much easier to pull the motor, other wise you need a leveler to angle the setup enough to get over the core support. you can also block or chain the up the bellhousing if you want to leave the tranny in the car. If the car is a manual though I recommend pulling the tranny for putting the motor back in, its quite a pain trying to get the input shaft to line up otherwise.

96Formula6spd > My bird IS the word 08/22/2016 at 21:15

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Welcome to the club. I have my firebird and the 383 stroker needs a rebuild. Need at least $1200 to just ring,bearing, oil pump, bore the new block etc etc. Then another $500 to tune it. Heck the whole car needs about $2700 to get back on the road as the windshield line has rusted away and will start leaking soon. I have had the car for sale but no one is buying. I should just part it out but then 20 years ago I will miss it as its my first car. But it has really pissed me off. Shoot its been off the road since 2009. Not that I have not thrown over 10k at the problem.

But that being said. Save a little every month then do it. Do you have a place to park the car? Parents house or something. If so drain the gas and save some money. Then rebuild it and go. I was the grad student type and even had to pay my car loan,rent,food etc. Granted getting my masters degree was a horrible job decision but that is another story for another time (Civil Engineering SUCKS).

cletus44 aka Clayton Seams > My bird IS the word 08/23/2016 at 09:31

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Just take it to an exhaust shop and let them deal with it. you can limp it there with open headers.